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Wooden Camping Chair! Chad Michael "Bug" Greenwood no
craft
wood
craft
wood
2025-09-15

Video Summary [WIP]

This section is still a Work In Progress

HyperVegan | Wooden Camping Chair {TBD}

"Ingredients"

8ft long 2x10 (about $20 USD at Home Depot) : example

I used a circular saw on the long cuts and corner cuts, otherwise it was a folding saw and hand axe. A jigsaw would have been great. I've also helped someone who used an oscillating saw.

Basic Cuts

Cut in half, 48 inches in length each side.

Decide which piece will be the back vs the seat based on knots, cracks, etc.

Also decide which side is the front vs back, and top vs bottom, for each.

The coordinates provided assume the 2x10 is functionally 9in wide, but it may be up to 9.25 inches in practice. So if it says ~9, it means the right side of the board, and ~7 would be 2 inches away from that end.

Back Piece

.....................
|   |           |   |
3---|-----------|---4
|   5 X X X X X 6   |
1---|-----------|---2
|   |           |   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|___________________|

P1: ( 0, 13)
P2: (~9, 13)
P3: ( 0, 15.5)
P4: (~9, 15.5)
P5: ( 2, [13,15.5])
P6: (~7, [13,15.5])
  1. Measure 13 inches up from the bottom on the back board and draw a horizontal line. (P1 + P2)
  2. Measure another 1.5 inches above that and draw a horizontal line. (P3 + P4)
  3. Measure 2 inches in from each side and draw vertical lines. (P5 + P6)
  4. Mark this on the other side of the board so that it can be managed from both directions.
  5. You now have the rectangle which needs cut out in order to slide in the seat board. (X'd portion)

Cutting out the portion can be done with a jigsaw, oscillating saw, wood boring spade set and folding saw, a hatchet, etc.

Seat Piece

_____________________
| X 4           6 X |
|X X|           |X X|
| X 4           6 X |
|X X|           |X X|
| X 4           6 X |
.....................
| X 4           6 X |
|X X|           |X X|
| X 4           6 X |
|X X|           |X X|
1---3-----------5---2
|   |           |   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|                   |
|___________________|

P1: ( 0,  13)
P2: (~9,  13)
P3: ( 2,  13)
P4: ( 2, >13)
P5: (~7,  13)
P6: (~7, >13)
  1. Measure 13 inches back from the front of the seat and draw a horizontal line. (P1 + P2)
  2. Measure 2 inches in from each side and draw vertical lines all the way to the end of the board. (P3 to P4, P5 to P6)
  3. You now have the two areas to cut off of the seat board. (X'd portion)
  4. Try fitting it into the back. Use whatever tools necessary to clean up the hole or shave off the edges of the seat insert. I used a folding saw to open up the hole and a hand axe to shave the insert.

Keep these scrap pieces if you wish to add a carrying case to the back.

Extra Cuts

Technically the chair is now 100% complete and usable. I used it in this simple manner for a few weeks before opting for some extra changes for comfort and to better handle uneven ground surfaces.

Seat Comfort

Removing the front corners allows your legs to go forward easier, as well as sitting cross legged and other positions.

.....................
|                   |
|                   |
1--__           __--2
|X X \__     __/ X X|
|_X_X_X_3___4_X_X_X_|

P1: ( 0, 2)
P2: (~9, 2)
P3: ( 3, 0)
P4: (~6, 0)
  1. From each front corner of the seat, measure 2 inches back (P1 + P2) and 3 inches towards the front center (P3 + P4).
  2. Draw lines from the side marking to the front marking on each side.
  3. Cut off the corners and smooth the edges with a hand axe, sandpaper, or other edging device.

I also did this to the top of the back piece for aesthetics, and I suppose a slight reduction in weight.

Floor Stability

The 9 inch base tends to wobble a bit. This helps it be much sturdier.

.....................
|                   |
|                   |
|     _4--3--5_     |
|    / X X X X \    |
|___1_X_X_X_X_X_2___|

P1: (2, 0)
P2: (7, 0)
P3: (4.5, 1.5)
P4: (3, 1.5)
P5: (6, 1.5)
  1. At the bottom of the back board, measure in 2 inches from each side and mark these points. (POINTS 1 and 2)
  2. Find the middle of the board, around 4.5 to 4.6 inches, and mark it vertically.
  3. Measure up 1.5 inches from the center vertical line and mark horizontally. (POINT 3)
  4. Measure in 3 inches from each side and mark them vertically (POINTS 4 and 5)
  5. Draw lines from P1 to P4, P2 to P5, and then from P4 to P5 which should pass through POINT 3. See the diagram.
  6. You now have your cutting lines. I used a circular saw to fo P1 to P4 and P2 to P5, then a folding saw to start cutting out pieces and eventuallymake it from P4 to P5. A jigsaw would probably work great.

Carry Case [WIP]

This section is still a Work In Progress

Cut off at 8.5 inches from each seat scrap piece.

Lay the back piece on its front, place the seat on top, and line up the sitting part of the seat with the top of the back of the back piece.

Place the the shorter sides of the seat scrap pieces (1.5in) against the back of the back piece in similar locations as they were cut off. I prefer having the factory corner facing the outside of the chair.

Place the 8.5in pieces across the scrap pieces with the 2in sides facing down, factory edges facing the top and botton of the seat. Drill a pilot hole and add a 2.5in screw or similar into each corner to build the carry case frame.

Attach the carry case frame to the back of the back piece with mre 2.5in screws after carefully aligning the seat and having the frame centered.

I personally choose to eyeball most of this work. [TBD/TODO: Watching the video is recommended for this section.]