Finish adding coordinates and add tentative text for carry case section.
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@@ -5,9 +5,9 @@ author: 'Chad Michael "Bug" Greenwood'
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# "Ingredients"
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8ft long 2x10 (about $20 USD at Home Depot) [`link`](TBD/TODO)
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8ft long 2x10 (about $20 USD at Home Depot) [`example`](https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-10-in-x-8-ft-2-Premium-Grade-Fir-Dimensional-Lumber-915564/206182030)
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I used a circular saw on the long cuts and corner cuts, otherwise it was a folding saw and hand axe. A jigsaw would have been great.
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I used a circular saw on the long cuts and corner cuts, otherwise it was a folding saw and hand axe. A jigsaw would have been great. I've also helped someone who used an oscillating saw.
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# Basic Cuts
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@@ -15,6 +15,10 @@ Cut in half, 48 inches in length each side.
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Decide which piece will be the back vs the seat based on knots, cracks, etc.
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Also decide which side is the front vs back, and top vs bottom, for each.
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The coordinates provided assume the 2x10 is functionally 9in wide, but it may be up to 9.25 inches in practice. So if it says ~9, it means the right side of the board, and ~7 would be 2 inches away from that end.
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## Back Piece
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```
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@@ -35,8 +39,20 @@ Decide which piece will be the back vs the seat based on knots, cracks, etc.
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1. Measure 13 inches up from the bottom on the back board and draw a horizontal line. (P1 + P2)
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1. Measure another 1.5 inches above that and draw a horizontal line. (P3 + P4)
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1. Measure 2 inches in from each side and draw vertical lines. (P5 + P6)
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1. Mark this on the other side of the board so that it can be managed from both directions.
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1. You now have the rectangle which needs cut out in order to slide in the seat board. (X'd portion)
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Cutting out the portion can be done with a jigsaw, oscillating saw, wood boring spade set and folding saw, a hatchet, etc.
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```
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P1: ( 0, 13)
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P2: (~9, 13)
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P3: ( 0, 15.5)
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P4: (~9, 15.5)
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P5: ( 2, [13,15.5])
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P6: (~7, [13,15.5])
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```
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## Seat Piece
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```
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@@ -66,6 +82,15 @@ _____________________
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1. You now have the two areas to cut off of the seat board. (X'd portion)
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1. Try fitting it into the back. Use whatever tools necessary to clean up the hole or shave off the edges of the seat insert. I used a folding saw to open up the hole and a hand axe to shave the insert.
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```
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P1: ( 0, 13)
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P2: (~9, 13)
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P3: ( 2, 13)
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P4: ( 2, >13)
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P5: (~7, 13)
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P6: (~7, >13)
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```
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# Extra Cuts
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Technically the chair is now 100% complete and usable. I used it in this simple manner for a few weeks before opting for some extra changes for comfort and to better handle uneven ground surfaces.
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@@ -89,6 +114,13 @@ Removing the front corners allows your legs to go forward easier, as well as sit
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I also did this to the top of the back piece for aesthetics, and I suppose a slight reduction in weight.
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```
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P1: ( 0, 2)
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P2: (~9, 2)
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P3: ( 3, 0)
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P4: (~6, 0)
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```
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## Floor Stability
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The 9 inch base tends to wobble a bit. This helps it be much sturdier.
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@@ -109,8 +141,24 @@ The 9 inch base tends to wobble a bit. This helps it be much sturdier.
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1. Draw lines from P1 to P4, P2 to P5, and then from P4 to P5 which should pass through POINT 3. See the diagram.
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1. You now have your cutting lines. I used a circular saw to fo P1 to P4 and P2 to P5, then a folding saw to start cutting out pieces and eventuallymake it from P4 to P5. A jigsaw would probably work great.
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```
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P1: (2, 0)
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P2: (7, 0)
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P3: (4.5, 1.5)
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P4: (3, 1.5)
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P5: (6, 1.5)
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```
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## {TBD/TODO: Carry Case}
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Cut off at 8.5 inches from each seat waste piece.
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Line up the seat with the top of the back of the back piece.
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Place the the shorter sides of the seat waste pieces against the back of the back piece in similar locations as they were cut off. I prefer having the factory corner facing the outside of the chair.
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Place the 8.5in pieces across the waste pieces. Drill a pilot hole and add a 2.5in screw or similar into each corner to build the carry case frame.
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Attach the carry case frame to the back of the back piece with mre 2.5in screws after carefully aligning the seat and having the frame centered.
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I personally choose to eyeball most of this work.
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