Finish adding coordinates and add tentative text for carry case section.

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2025-10-29 21:48:49 -07:00
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@@ -5,9 +5,9 @@ author: 'Chad Michael "Bug" Greenwood'
# "Ingredients"
8ft long 2x10 (about $20 USD at Home Depot) [`link`](TBD/TODO)
8ft long 2x10 (about $20 USD at Home Depot) [`example`](https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-10-in-x-8-ft-2-Premium-Grade-Fir-Dimensional-Lumber-915564/206182030)
I used a circular saw on the long cuts and corner cuts, otherwise it was a folding saw and hand axe. A jigsaw would have been great.
I used a circular saw on the long cuts and corner cuts, otherwise it was a folding saw and hand axe. A jigsaw would have been great. I've also helped someone who used an oscillating saw.
# Basic Cuts
@@ -15,6 +15,10 @@ Cut in half, 48 inches in length each side.
Decide which piece will be the back vs the seat based on knots, cracks, etc.
Also decide which side is the front vs back, and top vs bottom, for each.
The coordinates provided assume the 2x10 is functionally 9in wide, but it may be up to 9.25 inches in practice. So if it says ~9, it means the right side of the board, and ~7 would be 2 inches away from that end.
## Back Piece
```
@@ -35,8 +39,20 @@ Decide which piece will be the back vs the seat based on knots, cracks, etc.
1. Measure 13 inches up from the bottom on the back board and draw a horizontal line. (P1 + P2)
1. Measure another 1.5 inches above that and draw a horizontal line. (P3 + P4)
1. Measure 2 inches in from each side and draw vertical lines. (P5 + P6)
1. Mark this on the other side of the board so that it can be managed from both directions.
1. You now have the rectangle which needs cut out in order to slide in the seat board. (X'd portion)
Cutting out the portion can be done with a jigsaw, oscillating saw, wood boring spade set and folding saw, a hatchet, etc.
```
P1: ( 0, 13)
P2: (~9, 13)
P3: ( 0, 15.5)
P4: (~9, 15.5)
P5: ( 2, [13,15.5])
P6: (~7, [13,15.5])
```
## Seat Piece
```
@@ -66,6 +82,15 @@ _____________________
1. You now have the two areas to cut off of the seat board. (X'd portion)
1. Try fitting it into the back. Use whatever tools necessary to clean up the hole or shave off the edges of the seat insert. I used a folding saw to open up the hole and a hand axe to shave the insert.
```
P1: ( 0, 13)
P2: (~9, 13)
P3: ( 2, 13)
P4: ( 2, >13)
P5: (~7, 13)
P6: (~7, >13)
```
# Extra Cuts
Technically the chair is now 100% complete and usable. I used it in this simple manner for a few weeks before opting for some extra changes for comfort and to better handle uneven ground surfaces.
@@ -89,6 +114,13 @@ Removing the front corners allows your legs to go forward easier, as well as sit
I also did this to the top of the back piece for aesthetics, and I suppose a slight reduction in weight.
```
P1: ( 0, 2)
P2: (~9, 2)
P3: ( 3, 0)
P4: (~6, 0)
```
## Floor Stability
The 9 inch base tends to wobble a bit. This helps it be much sturdier.
@@ -109,8 +141,24 @@ The 9 inch base tends to wobble a bit. This helps it be much sturdier.
1. Draw lines from P1 to P4, P2 to P5, and then from P4 to P5 which should pass through POINT 3. See the diagram.
1. You now have your cutting lines. I used a circular saw to fo P1 to P4 and P2 to P5, then a folding saw to start cutting out pieces and eventuallymake it from P4 to P5. A jigsaw would probably work great.
```
P1: (2, 0)
P2: (7, 0)
P3: (4.5, 1.5)
P4: (3, 1.5)
P5: (6, 1.5)
```
## {TBD/TODO: Carry Case}
Cut off at 8.5 inches from each seat waste piece.
Line up the seat with the top of the back of the back piece.
Place the the shorter sides of the seat waste pieces against the back of the back piece in similar locations as they were cut off. I prefer having the factory corner facing the outside of the chair.
Place the 8.5in pieces across the waste pieces. Drill a pilot hole and add a 2.5in screw or similar into each corner to build the carry case frame.
Attach the carry case frame to the back of the back piece with mre 2.5in screws after carefully aligning the seat and having the frame centered.
I personally choose to eyeball most of this work.